Below is a list of the types we offer:
- Climbers – These varieties produce long canes which will need to be trained onto a support. Varieties include Hybrid Tea, Floribunda & Grandiflora varieties budded onto climber rootstock.
- English: AKA “David Austin Rose” – These varieties are characterized by peony-style double blooms. They are very fragrant and may grow as tall as 8 feet.
- Floribunda – Better for enjoying in the garden than for cutting, these roses have short stems and tend to bloom in bunches of 5-7. Floribunda typically grow to be about 3-4 feet tall.
- Grandiflora -These work wonderfully in the back of your garden due to height and can make an instant bouquet for a vase. Long stems carry 5-6 large blooms similar to Hybrid Tea and grows 6-8 feet tall.
- Hybrid Tea – The classic bouquet or vase rose, with long stems typically having a single bloom, usually growing 4-5 feet tall.
- Miniature – These are smaller plants with smaller blooms. Ideal for container growing or planting in front of other flowers, these roses will grow to heights of 18 to 30 inches and will have 3/4 to 1 inch blooms covering the plant.
Roses should be available by Valentine’s Day. If you have any questions, our professional nursery staff is happy to assist you.
How To Grow Roses
To learn rose gardening, you must be patient in developing your skills. While gardening roses is a little more demanding than many other shrubs you could choose to grow, the beauty and the fragrance roses produce from summer to fall is well worth the extra care they require.
Johnson Brothers Greenhouses produced this guide to help you learn rose gardening techniques to successfully grow, prune and care for your roses properly.
Take your time, follow the instructions and enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Roses do best if given at least of 6 hours of direct sunlight per day and prefer rich, well drained soil. If you happen to have heavy clay soil then you’ll want to enrich it with something along the lines of Gardener & Bloome® Soil Building Compost or Rose Planting Mix.
You can plant roses any time of year that the soil can be worked. When planting, dig a hole which is twice as wide as the container and mix bone meal and lime into the soil to ensure plenty of nutrients for your new roses.
Begin fertilizing monthly from March to September. A fertilizer made specifically for roses will work best – our recommendations include Fertilome® Rose Food (14-12-11) with Systemic Insecticide (prevents Aphids) or Garden Valley Organics® Rose & Flower Food (4-8-4).
Fertilize the soil at the surface; but take care not to burn your canes or bud union with the fertilizer. Make sure the plant is well watered prior to fertilizing.
Mulching will help maintain needed moisture for the plant. We suggest using garden compost, cocoa hulls or hemlock bark. You can also mulch throughout the year – weed and lightly work the soil beforehand. You’ll want to use 2-3 inches of mulch spread evenly over the rose bed, making sure to leave a little space around the trunk of the plant.
Roses require a good deal of water; it is rare that rain alone will be enough. How often you need to water depends on the weather conditions and the drainage of your soil. You should water infrequently, but making sure to give your roses ample water when you do.
A soaker hose works well to water your roses. Roses have fewer fungus problems by keeping water off of the foliage. A drip irrigation system also works well for roses.
Pruning is essential to keeping your rose bushes well shaped and for most types of roses pruning can keep your plants blooming throughout the growing season. Proper pruning will lead to larger plants and more flowers. When pruning roses, remember to cut at least as far as the stem node when removing spent blooms – farther is better. Don’t worry about hurting your roses; pruning hasn’t killed a rose bush yet.
When pruning you’ll need the following supplies: sharp curved-edge pruning shears; long-handled lopping shears; and leather gardening gloves.
Pruning Hybrid Teas, Floribundas, Grandifloras
When pruning, remove the oldest canes first – this allows the plant to focus on new growth, leading to fresh and healthy looking bushes. One thing you’ll discover when you learn rose gardening is that twiggy, tangled growth in the midst of a bush can lead to disease. It prevents proper air circulation, blocks light and should always be removed when seen.
Prune your well-established Hybrid Teas, Floribundas and Grandifloras in autumn to about 2-2½’ in height. Prune them once again in early spring, just as the buds are swelling to around 12-15”. If you live in a region which is especially windy, pruning roses of this height is very important in fall to keep the plant from having its roots loosened by wind.
Pruning Miniature Roses
With miniature roses, remove all diseased, dead or damaged wood, followed by thinning any tangles. You can also opt to cut out all but the very strongest stems and reducing the plant’s height by one third. In milder climates, this is a better way to prune these varieties.
Pruning Roses That Are Climbers & Spring-Bloomers
If you are growing varieties of roses which bloom only once per growing season, you will need to prune them right after they have flowered. This is because they bloom on wood from last year’s growth. If they are not pruned, then climbing varieties will just grow vertically, not producing many flowers. By pruning and training the canes, you can produce a more fan-like shape for the plant and encourage blooming.
You should not prune these plants in the first two years after you have planted them; instead, train the canes onto supports. After the first two years, begin pruning to discourage vertical growth – this is a process which will take a while (much like learning rose gardening itself) but will eventually bring about a good amount of blooms.
Any damaged canes should be removed and the main branches pruned at the tips to prevent overgrowth. The idea is to create a balanced shape and to encourage the plant to grow horizontally to produce more flowers. If the base of the plant begins to look bare, then cut half of the older shoots to about 10” from the base of the plant – this will encourage new growth.
Keeping your roses pruned goes a long way towards keeping them pest free. Anyone starting to learn rose gardening should understand the need these plants have for fertilization and overall good grooming. Another essential is to be sure to keep debris away from your roses, including petals and leaves which have dropped from the plants.
Rose pest control begins with learning to recognize the most common ones first. Below is a list of the top 5, not in any order along with helpful solutions.
If you are seeing masses of bugs on leaves and buds, it is likely aphids (can be most any color). For an organic solution use Fertilome’s Triple Action Plus or Rose, Flower & Vegetable Spray or Rose & Flower Dust.
A conventional remedy would be Fertilome’s Liquid Carbaryl or Systemic Insecticide Granules
If blooms are shredded, discolored or buds are distorted, insects may be found when you squeeze a bloom. Also watch petals for movement.
These are likely Thrips. Use a white sheet of paper, tap on the buds and examine it for movement.
Similar solution to above. For an organic solution use Fertilome’s Triple Action Plus or Rose, Flower & Vegetable Spray. A conventional remedy would be Fertilome’s Liquid Carbaryl or Systemic Insecticide Granules
Do leaves have a gold fuzz on them, with webbing on the undersides? Or moving tiny red specks? Spider mites are tiny spider-like red insects who love hotter weather. The warmer it is, the more likely the infestation.
For an organic solution use Fertilome’s Triple Action Plus or Rose, Flower & Vegetable Spray or Rose & Flower Dust. A conventional remedy would be Fertilome’s Systemic Insecticide Granules.
Caterpillars & Cutter Bees
If the leaves are eaten-skeletonized or large C’s notched out of the sides, Caterpillars or Cutter Bees are the culprit.
For an organic solution use Fertilome’s Triple Action Plus or Rose, Flower & Vegetable Spray or Rose & Flower Dust. A conventional remedy would be Fertilome’s Liquid Carbaryl.
Black spots or white powder on the leaves are usually an indication of Black Spot or Powdery Mildew fungus. Prevention is simply having good sanitation and watering in the morning-without getting the leaves wet.
The best organic solution, again, is Fertilome’s Triple Action Plus or Rose, Flower & Vegetable Spray or Bonide Liquid Copper. A conventional remedy would be Fertilomes Liquid Systemic Fungicide at the first sign of infection.
It can also be used as a preventative solution for rose pest control strategies.